Introduction
Retinoids, a powerful class of vitamin A derivatives, have revolutionised the skincare industry with their profound ability to transform skin. In this blog, we will answer “are retinol creams safe” and fact check some common misconceptions surrounding them. For some background knowledge about retinoids, please read our previous blog here.
Are retinol creams safe to use in my skincare regime?
People often think retinoid creams are not safe due to reports of side effects such as skin irritation, redness, and peeling. These reactions stem from the potent nature of retinoids, which increase cell turnover and can initially stress the skin. Additionally, the heightened sun sensitivity retinoids cause leads to concerns about increased risk of sunburn and sun damage if not properly managed with sunscreen. Misconceptions also arise from improper usage or overuse of retinoids, reinforcing the belief that these creams might harm the skin. However, when correctly applied and gradually introduced, these concerns can be mitigated. This blog will showcase how retinoids can be used safely and effectively in skincare.
Do retinol creams thin the skin?
Yes but it’s not what you think…
Retinoids work in a complex manner:
Initial Response: When you begin using a retinoid, it increases the turnover of skin cells, leading to a temporary reduction in the stratum corneum—the outermost skin layer. This layer consists of dead skin cells that the retinoid causes to shed more rapidly than usual.
Perceived Thinning: This accelerated shedding can make the skin feel and appear thinner and more delicate. The skin may also become more prone to irritation, dryness, and sensitivity to sunlight during this phase.
Recovery and Strengthening: As your skin continues to adapt to the retinoid, it starts to experience the deeper benefits. Retinoids stimulate the production of new collagen and other supportive elements in the dermis, the layer beneath the epidermis. Over time, this results in thicker, more resilient skin.
Long-term Effects: With ongoing use, the benefits of increased collagen and elastin production typically surpass any initial thinning, leading to overall enhancements in skin thickness and health.
So yes in the short term the skin is thinner but this is only as your skin adjusts to the retinoid during the initial phase of use. In the long term, it promotes stronger, healthier skin with reduced lines and wrinkles and improved skin tone and texture.
Are they safe to use in the day?
You should apply retinol creams at NIGHT for two reasons:
Firstly, retinol makes your skin more vulnerable to UV rays during the day. It speeds up cell turnover and thins the outer layer of dead skin cells, revealing fresher, more delicate skin underneath. While this gives your skin a radiant glow, it also increases the risk of sunburn. Applying retinol at night and using SPF during the day helps minimise this risk.
Secondly, sunlight breaks retinol down, reducing its effectiveness. By applying retinol at night, you ensure your skin fully benefits from the product without the interference of sunlight.
Are retinol creams safe to use with other skincare products?
Yes, you can safely use retinol creams with other skincare products but you need to be cautious. Retinol can be potent and may cause irritation when combined with certain ingredients, such as alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), or products such as benzoyl peroxide. To avoid irritation, it’s best to layer products carefully, starting with gentler formulas and introducing retinol gradually into your routine.
Can you use them in the summer?
Yes, retinol creams are safe to use in the summer, they do NOT need to be stopped. However, you need to take precautions. Retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, increasing the risk of sunburn and irritation. To protect your skin, always apply sunscreen with a high SPF during the day, and consider using retinol at night to minimize sun exposure. By following these steps, you can enjoy the benefits of retinol while keeping your skin safe.
What about with acne?
Yes, retinol creams are safe to use for acne and can be highly effective. Retinol helps by unclogging pores, reducing inflammation, and promoting cell turnover, which can prevent new breakouts. It also helps fade acne scars over time.
Are retinol creams safe to use in skin of colour?
Yes, retinol creams are safe to use on skin of colour. Retinol can be effective in treating issues like hyperpigmentation, acne, and uneven skin tone, which can be common concerns for people with darker skin.
Are retinol creams safe to use when pregnant?
Retinol creams are not recommended for use during pregnancy. High doses of vitamin A, which retinol contains, can potentially harm the developing baby. It’s best to avoid retinol-based products and opt for alternatives like glycolic acid or other pregnancy-safe skincare options. If you are pregnant and want a pregnancy-safe skincare routine formulated for you, book in with Dr Randhawa, our skincare lead, for a consultation.
Are retinol creams safe to use when breastfeeding?
Retinol creams are generally not recommended during breastfeeding. While there is limited research on the effects of topical retinol while nursing, high doses of vitamin A can pass into breast milk, which could potentially affect your baby. To be safe, it’s best to avoid retinol and opt for other alternatives.
Will retinol creams make my skin purge?
Yes, retinol creams can cause your skin to purge, especially when you first start using them. Purging occurs as retinol speeds up cell turnover, bringing clogged pores and impurities to the surface. This can lead to temporary breakouts, but it’s usually a sign that the product is working. Over time, your skin should clear up and look smoother as the retinol continues to improve skin texture and prevent new breakouts. To minimise irritation, start with a lower concentration and gradually increase usage.
Is tretinoin the best or will adapalene have the same benefits?
Tretinoin is often considered the more powerful option for anti-ageing. There is currently more evidence for tretinoin than there is for adapalene when it comes to achieving younger-looking skin. However, adapalene, while milder, still offers significant benefits, especially for acne treatment. Both products promote cell turnover, reduce inflammation, and improve skin texture. If you have sensitive skin or are new to retinoids, adapalene may be a gentler option. Ultimately, the best choice depends on your skin’s needs and how it reacts to each product.