In the expansive landscape of skincare, one ingredient has consistently stood out as a powerhouse in the fight against ageing – retinol. No7, a brand synonymous with skincare innovation has introduced its own rendition of this transformative compound. This detailed guide aims to unravel the complexities surrounding No7 Retinol. We will explore the nuances of retinoids, elucidate how they function, and critically assess whether the No7 retinol lives up to the lofty expectations set by its reputation.
What are retinoids?
Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A. It falls within the broader category of retinoids—a family of compounds renowned for their skin-renewing properties. With a rich history in dermatology, retinoids have demonstrated efficacy in addressing a spectrum of skin concerns. They have a wealth of evidence behind them, making them a cornerstone in skincare formulations.
How do retinoids work?
Retinoids, when applied topically, influences skin cells on a molecular level. They stimulate collagen production, a crucial protein for maintaining skin elasticity. Retinoids facilitates the acceleration of cell turnover. This results in the shedding of old, damaged skin cells, revealing a fresher, more youthful complexion. However, its benefits don’t stop there. Renowned for its versatility, retinoids boast a myriad of benefits in skincare. Their other positive effects include the reduction of fine lines, improvement in skin texture and tone, mitigation of hyperpigmentation, and addressing acne-related concerns.
What is the retinoid ladder?
The retinoid ladder delineates the spectrum of strengths within the vitamin A derivatives family, each playing a distinct role in skincare. Understanding this hierarchy is pivotal for tailoring your skincare routine to align with your specific needs and skin tolerance. For retinoids to work their magic on the skin, they need to be in the form of retinoic acid. The prescription strength retinoids such as tretinoin do not need to be broken down as they are already a form of retinoic acid. However, all of the other forms/strengths need to be converted first. The more conversions that are needed, the weaker the retinoid is.
1. Low Strength: Retinol esters
Retinol esters such as retinyl palmitate are positioned at the base of the ladder. They are the mildest retinoids and require a minimum of three conversions before becoming retinoic acid. While gentle, they may be suitable for those new to retinoids or with sensitive skin. This is the latte of the coffee world.
2. Moderate Strength: Retinol
Retinol is the mid-strength contender, lauded for its efficacy in addressing various skin concerns without the potential irritation associated with prescription options. It needs two conversions to become retinoic acid. Widely available in skincare products, retinol offers a versatile solution for those seeking noticeable results without the intensity of stronger retinoids. No7 retinol occupies this mid-strength tier and is the cappuccino of the coffee world.
3. Intermediate Strength: Retinals (AKA retinaldehydes) and Granactive Retinoids
Falling between retinol and prescription retinoids, retinals (short for retinaldehydes) and granactive retinoids (also known as hydroxypinacolone retinoate) provide a step up in potency while maintaining a moderate risk of irritation. Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is a retinoic acid ester, it is more stable and less irritating than other retinoids. Retinaldehyde requires one conversion to retinoic acid and is the espresso of the coffee world.
4. Higher Strengths: Prescription Retinoids
Ascending the ladder, prescription-strength retinoids like tretinoin and adapalene are more potent. Doctors often prescribe them to address specific dermatological concerns but may come with a higher risk of irritation. They are already in the form of retinoic acid and so require no conversions before being able to work on the skin.
Where does the No7 retinol sit in the ladder?
As the name suggests, the No7 retinol is a retinol and sits in the moderate strength tier of the ladder.
What is the difference between the different products in the no7 retinol range?
There are three different retinol products within the no7 retinol range:
- Pure Retinol 0.3% Retinol Night Concentrate (30ml)
A lower strength product for the face and is advised for patients who have never used retinoids before or have sensitive skin
- Pure Retinol 1% Retinol Night Concentrate (30ml)
This is the next strength up and is advised for patients whose skin is used to retinoids
- No7 Pure Retinol Eye Cream (15ml)
This is a 0.5% retinol cream which is specifically created for the gentle eye area, it is formulated with Shea Butter and Bisabolol, which aims to sooth and hydrate the skin.
The no7 retinol range also includes the following two moisturisers to help minimise irritation when using the no 7 retinol products. There is very minimal retinol or no retinol in these moisturisers. These are:
- No7 Pure Retinol Night Repair Cream (50ml)
No7 advises to use this moisturising cream every night, especially after using the Pure Retinol 0.3% Retinol Night Concentrate. It has 0.025% retinol in it.
- Pure Retinol Post Retinol Soother 50ml
No7 Pure Retinol Post Retinol Soother is designed specifically for use with the No7 Pure Retinol 1% Night Concentrate to moisturise the skin and reduce irritation.
Do I have to use the retinol products in the no7 retinol range and the moisturisers in this range together?
Although it is marketed to do so, you can use any moisturiser with the no7 retinol products, they do not have to be from this range. Any good moisturiser to reduce irritation and soothe the skin after retinol use is perfectly fine.
Why do all the no7 retinol products use the term ‘pure retinol’? What does this mean?
The term “pure” often indicates that the retinol is not mixed with other derivatives or less potent forms of vitamin A, such as retinyl palmitate or retinyl acetate. This suggests a direct, potent efficacy in the product’s claims.
How do I use the no7 retinol products?
- Start by applying either the 0.3% or 1% Pure Retinol Night Concentrate once or twice a week on non-consecutive nights on a cleansed face. Gradually increase the frequency to every other night, then every night as tolerated.
- Apply two pumps to a cleansed face at night, avoiding the eye, outer eye & lip areas before leaving to absorb.
- Follow up with a moisturiser and aim to do this immediately.
- Ensure you apply SPF religiously. Retinol itself does not cause sunburn, but it can increase your skin’s sensitivity to sunlight, making it more susceptible to sunburn.
What side effects can I expect from no7 retinol products?
- Irritation and Redness: One of the most common side effects is skin irritation, which can manifest as redness, itchiness, or a burning sensation. This typically occurs because retinol accelerates skin cell turnover, which can be initially harsh for some skin types.
- Dryness and Flaking: Retinol can cause the skin to become dry and flaky. This peeling is a part of the process where old skin is shed to make way for new skin cells. While this can be uncomfortable, it’s often a temporary phase.
- Increased Sun Sensitivity: As mentioned earlier, retinol can thin the outer layer of skin, making it more sensitive to UV rays. This increased sensitivity can lead to sunburn if you don’t take adequate sun protection measures.
- Purging: In some cases, retinol can cause skin purging, which is an initial breakout or worsening of acne as the skin adjusts to the treatment. This happens because retinol’s exfoliating effect brings hidden blemishes to the surface quicker than usual.
- Tightness: No 7 Retinol disrupts the moisture barrier temporarily during the early phases of use and the skin might feel tight or look.
How can we minimise these side effects?
- Gradual Introduction: Start with a low concentration of retinol and use it sparingly—perhaps once or twice a week—and gradually increase the frequency as your skin adapts.
- Buffering: You can apply a moisturiser before applying retinol to reduce irritation. This ‘buffering’ dilutes the retinol but still allows your skin to acclimate to it.
- Hydration: Keeping your skin well-hydrated with a good moisturiser is crucial, especially if you experience dryness and flaking.
- Sun Protection: Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily to protect your skin, as retinol makes it more vulnerable to sun damage.
- Observe and Adjust: Monitor your skin’s response and adjust your use of retinol accordingly. If side effects persist or cause significant discomfort, it may be necessary to switch to a different product or consult with a doctor.
Do we recommend no7 retinol products?
Dr Randhawa is the skincare lead for our clinic in Birmingham and believes: using the 0.3% or 1% no7 retinol products are a good starting point if you have never used retinoids before. They are also fragrance-free and hypoallergenic, making them a good choice for sensitive skin. However, consistency is key. As they are a ‘moderate strength’ retinoid it may be a few months before you see any positive changes in your skin. If you wish to see changes sooner and start on a stronger retinoid or have been using the No7 retinol products for some time and wish to step the retinoids in your skincare regime up, BOOK HERE for a virtual skincare consultation with Dr Randhawa. Or come and see us in our clinic in Birmingham. We look forward to meeting you.